The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds gather.

This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish berries on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He's organized a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Vineyards Around the World

So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district area and over three thousand vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist cities remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. They preserve land from development by establishing long-term, yielding farming plots inside cities," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the president.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Collective Efforts Across Bristol

Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Production

Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the hillside with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."

"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts are released from the skins and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a barrier on

Debbie Turner
Debbie Turner

A passionate traveler and tech enthusiast sharing experiences and advice from around the world.

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